How Does Brenda Christian Universal Brow Definer Work?

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Killingspree questions…How the hell is Brenda Christian’s Universal Brow Definer supposed to work? Is there any science behind this?

The Left Brain raises an eyebrow:

One or the maxims of the Beauty Brains is that “if it looks too good to be true, it probably is.” It looks to me like the Universal Brow Definer fits that description.

Background on Universal Brow Definer

This product is an eyebrow colorant in pencil form and consists of  waxes, oils, fatty alcohols, talc, and iron oxide colorants. (The full ingredient list is available on their website.)  These are standard ingredients commonly used in similar products, however, the manufacturer makes several claims about this product that are rather incredulous.

Brenda Christian claims

Brenda makes the following claims about Universal Brow Definer on her website:

Scientifically reads and automatically color adjusts to the pH of your eyebrow hair follicle.

The Definer will not work on your hand or other areas of the face but is specifically designed to simulate eyebrow hairs.

Automatically adjusts from light to dark, warmer or cooler, to all natural eyebrow hair shades including Platinum Blonde, Soft Auburn, and deepest Brunette.

Just stroke Universal Brow Definer over clean skin in your eyebrow area and watch as it automatically changes to the color of your own individual eyebrow hairs, filling in tiny gaps and perfecting your shape.

The Definer even creates a fuller stroke toward the root of the hair, thinning to the end, just like your own natural eyebrow hair.

If you have had a hair color service, Universal Brow Definer will refract the hair color you have chosen, causing your new hair color to blend more naturally with your own eyebrows.

The science behind Universal Brow Definer

There are two key elements to these claims that I’d like to comment on:  that the product automatically changes color to match natural brow shades and it is somehow triggered by the pH of the eyebrow follicle. The latter part of the claim doesn’t make much sense since the follicle doesn’t have an intrinsic pH and even if it did, the color of eyebrow hairs are not related to pH. It’s a moot point anyway since there doesn’t appear to be anything in this formula that could accommodate such a pH triggered change. (There are pH sensitive dyes but these are not allowed in products used around the eye.)

Enchanting encapsulation

Since pH isn’t an option are there other known mechanisms that could provide color change? In theory, yes. The formula contains three colorants: yellow, black and red iron oxides and white titanium dioxide. These colorants could be encapsulated (for example, with wax.) That encapsulation could provide a color change that is triggered by friction when the capsules are rubbed on the brow. However, I can think of no mechanism that would “automatically” match the released color to the natural color of the brows. Even if the colorants were encapsulated there is no apparent way to control how the color would be expressed.  I should also note that none of these proposed mechanisms can explain how the product would work on eyebrows but not your hand or face.

The Beauty Brains bottom line

My review is based solely on a review of the ingredients in the product and an understanding of the chemical and physical properties of these ingredients.  I can not conceive f any technical explanation for how this product could work  as the manufacturer claims. There is always the possibility, however slight, that this product could somehow be combining these standard ingredients in such a way as to produce an effect that is not apparent.  However, it would take a properly controlled test to convince me that this is the case and that this product is not just marketing hype. If anyone at Brenda Christian would care to share additional information with me about how this product works, I’d be happy to revisit the topic in a future post.

What do YOU think? Have you ever used a color changing product like this? What did you think of it?

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